How to Make a Continuous Wrap Opening

A continuous bound placket is a common closure for infant and children clothing. It is usually found below the back yoke pieces to provide a wide enough opening for easy dressing. Many tutorials use lots of pins, but I have found over the years that the fewer pins the better. With enough practice, pins aren't necessary at all.

Here are the steps.

STEP 1

Mark the slash length on the skirt. The measurement will usually be found in the pattern instructions and it depends on the size of the garment. In the photo below, a 4″ placket is marked on the white fabric. A narrow V shape is drawn to show how the reinforcing stitching will look.

Next, cut the placket piece. The length should equal 2 times the length of the slash plus 1″ for easier handling. The width can be varied, depending on the dress and the size. For a tiny infant dress with a gathered skirt, a narrower placket will work, 1 1/4″ wide. For a skirt that is less full or a larger size, a wider placket will look nicer and lay flatter. The photo below shows a 1 1/2″ wide placket. Press 1/4″ along one long edge to the wrong side as shown.

STEP 2

Stitch the reinforcing lines.

This stitching will help prevent unraveling during construction and strengthen the cut edges of the slash. It also adds strength to the narrow bottom part of the V shape.

Start at the left of the slash mark, 1/4″ away and set the machine to a tiny stitch length of 1.5.

Start stitching and gradually stitch closer to the point, but DO NOT cross the slash line. Leave a little bit of fabric on either side of the slash.

At the point, pivot the machine with the needle down, and stitch 2 stitches across. Leave the needle down and pivot again. Stitch up the other side of the slash, gradually increasing the distance from the slash back up to 1/4″.

STEP 3

Cut the slash open. Be careful not to cut through the reinforcing stitches.

The photo below shows how close the slash should be from the reinforcing stitches.

STEP 4

Mark the center of the placket.

Fold the placket in half matching the 2 short ends. Press a crease at the fold to mark the center of the placket.

On the unpressed edge of the placket, place a dot on the fold, 1/4″ away from the edge as shown below. This dot will be used to place the placket at the point of the slash.

STEP 5

Attach the placket.

Here is the part that differs from other tutorials and simplifies the process. The photo below shows only 2 pins used, one at the top and one at the point. Only one side of the slash is pinned to the placket at this step.

With the right side of the placket placed to the right side of the skirt, match the DOT on the placket to the bottom of the slash.

Pin the edges together at the top as shown below. Start on the left side of the slash.

Notice how the reinforcing stitches form a 1/4″ seam line. The cut edge of the slash does not get lined up with the cut edge of the placket.

Change the stitch length to 2.0. Start from the top and stitch a 1/4″ seam. Stop at the bottom with the needle down in the fabric.

Make sure all the reinforcing stitches are inside the seam allowance so that they won't show when the placket is finished.

STEP 6

Stitch the other side of the placket.

Leave the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot and stretch open the slash.

Re-arrange the folds of fabric out of the way and make sure the fabric along the stitching line is smooth as shown below.

Line up the reinforcing stitching to form a 1/4″ seam allowance from the edge of the placket and stitch to the end.

At this point, just hold the edges together and make sure the placket is in a straight line. No pins are needed, but one pin can be placed at the end of the opening if desired. Stop and rearrange any folds if the fabric bunches up.

The slash opening might stretch a little, which is why that extra inch is needed in the placket length.

The placket and slash should look like the photo below. Notice how the slash forms a wide V shape and the reinforcing stitches created the 1/4″ seam line.